For a Taste of By-Gone Thailand: Travel by Rail

Security checks, waiting in lines, pre-made meals and baggage limits: need a break from modern air travel? Get on the train. If you choose to travel Thailand long-distance by train, you can avoid them all. Three train lines can take you north to Chiangmai, northeast to Udon, south to Surathani or destinations in between in old- fashioned 1st or 2nd class comfort.

Train travel in Thailand is a throw back to earlier times. Whether you arrive by subway or taxi, you will feel as though you have stepped back in time the moment you walk into Hualamphong station. Built in 1916, it remains much as it always has been. The waiting area is a non-airconditioned hall rimmed by small shops, and restaurants. If you arrive early, you can relax with a cup of coffee on the upper balcony or stop in the food court for a cheap plate of Bai Kra Praw Kai (basil chicken).

 You can buy tickets on the of departure, or up to 60 days in advance. To guarantee a seat or sleeper, you should purchase your tickets in advance. The windows on the right hands side of the station are advanced sales (lettering in red). Tickets on the day of departure are on the left side (lettering in green). Fares and timetables can be found on the State Railway of Thailand website:

http://www.railway.co.th/home/Default.asp?lenguage=Eng

Once on the train, you'll have ample leg room, plenty of time to read, and a wonderful opportunity to mingle with Thai and foreign travelers. The food on the train is inexpensive and delicious. A typical meal comes with a main dish and rice, a side dish of curry, a soup and fresh fruit. You can eat it at your seat or walk down to the dining car.

Take the overnight train and you'll save the cost of a room night in a hotel and arrive in the morning ready to begin whatever adventure you've planned for yourself.